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 - INVERARAY IN WARTIME -

Courtesy of The Combined Operation Association's 'Bulldozer' from an original article written by Ann M.Craig, Rae MacGregor and Sheila W. MacIntyre (1994).

Some personal recollections of life in the small Scottish town of Inveraray that was host to thousands of men undergoing Combined Operations training in amphibious landing techniques on the shores of Loch Fyne in the early to mid 1940s.

Preparations for War Combined Operations VIP Visits Odds & Ends


 ~ Preparations for War ~

Few people who, lived through the wartime years, are likely to forget Sunday 3rd September 1939 when the news came of Britain's declaration of war on Germany.

Many young men and women left the area to go to war. The older men, and the boys waiting for call-up, were formed into a Local Defence Volunteer Company (later the Home Guard) under the command of Captain John Campbell-Blair, Dalchenna and Lieut. A M MacPherson, Manager of the local Union Bank (now the Bank of Scotland). An Observer Corp was formed under the command of Captain Walter Thursby at Horse Park. The police force, under Sgt. Taylor, was augmented by Special Constables mostly comprised of men from Inveraray Estate who had seen service in the previous conflict.

In preparation for the outbreak of hostilities plans had been made for the evacuation of city children to the comparative safety of the countryside. These plans were now implemented.

In Inveraray, during a thunderstorm, the Duchess of Hamilton tied up at the pier and a troop of bewildered children was led down the gangway. They were marshalled at the Jubilee Hall in the Maltland and where were given a hot meal cooked by a committee of local ladies. (Photo - view of Inveraray from the watchtower. c 1942 Karl Work).

Under the direction of Mr. James Carmichael, a local contractor, every available car in the district was used to convey the children to their respective destinations. These included the cars from Turnbull's garage The children were given a warm welcome.

The original number of evacuees, including women and children, was 424. Many found the country way of life so different to that of the city that they soon returned home. They preferred to face the dangers of the German bombers in familiar surroundings! In the school log of September 25 1919  the headmaster, Donald MacKechnie, noted "Government evacuees began work today along with our own pupils - 22 boys, 43 girls. By Dec. 1943 four evacuees still remained in the burgh."

 ~ Combined Operations ~

In 1940, after the fall of France, the Prime Minister began planning the invasion of Europe. Admiral Keyes began a search for a suitable place to train Commandos and crews together. The choice eventually fell on Inveraray and on the 15th October 1940 Vice Admiral Theodore Hallet R.N. assumed command of No.1 Combined Operations Invasion Training Centre. Suddenly, this quiet little town on the west coast of Scotland, found itself playing an important part in the war against Germany.

Royal Engineer and Pioneer Companies duly arrived to set up camps. The local firms of Messrs James Carmichael and Messrs Cowieson of Glasgow being the principal contractors.

Town Camp and Avenue Camp were erected behind the Newtown and the Duke's and Castle Camps sprang up in the castle grounds. Shira Camp was built at the entrance to Glen Shira and, south of the town, land on Dalchenna Farm was requisitioned to build a Naval Camp known as "HMS Quebec" (now Argyll Caravan Park). Further along the shore Kilbride and Chamois Camps were established. As the camps were completed they were occupied. Many famous regiments were to receive specialised training in  the hills and on the shores of Loch Fyne. (Photo: Inveraray Castle, Karl Work c 2000).

Commando troops, who were later to take part in many raids on enemy territory, had their first training here. They arrived in the late autumn in troopships which anchored off the Creags. Among the officers was Captain Randolph Churchill son of the Prime Minister.

Some of the larger houses and buildings in the town were requisitioned by the Admiralty. These included Dalchenna House, Fern Point, Coffee House, Rudha-na-Craig and Tigh-na-Ruadh (the present Loch Fyne Hotel) - the latter becoming Admiralty House. In the grounds of Fern Point a Nissan hut was established for use as a decontamination centre. Other buildings were requisitioned during these war years included Cherry Park, which became the Quartermaster's store. The old byre there was transformed into a cook house.

The town was often the scene of attack and defence manoeuvres from doorway to doorway and close to close. Khaki clad men armed, with Tommy guns and revolvers, would overrun the streets whilst townspeople carried on with their normal duties.

One young evacuee lived with his grandparents in a house facing the pier. He spent hours watching the comings and goings of soldiers and ships in the harbour area. He wrote a letter to his parents giving them a blow by blow account of everything he had observed from his vantage point. Owing to censorship of letters at the time all his parents received was a heading "Dear Mum and Dad" and a tail piece "Love Jim."

Provost A. J. MacIntyre, himself an officer of the 1914-18 war with the rank of Major, presided over the Town Council. He also acted as Welfare Officer between Military and Civilian Authorities. It was a busy and difficult time for civic dignitaries. They suddenly found they had to cope with demands for extra water and provisions to meet the requirements of a large influx of workmen and HM Forces personnel. In a Minute of the Town Council, dated 20th September 1940, it was noted that baffle walls were to be erected in front of the closes in the town. As a protection against enemy action it was also agreed to order a dozen stirrup pumps at £1. 0s 0p each.

The off duty hours of troops were made as comfortable as possible. A cinema was built within the castle grounds and a large N.A.F.F.I. canteen was built on the site of the present day Youth Hostel. The local W.V.S., under the presidency of Mrs. Alex. J. MacIntyre, and supported by local ladies, opened a canteen in the St Malieu Hall. The venue proved immensely popular with the soldiers and opening hours invariably found a long queue waiting. A cup of tea or coffee and bun cost one penny (pre decimal) and the profits went towards parcels for the troops. Mrs. A. M. MacPherson, a local banker's wife, looked after the financial side of the organisation, while Mrs. John MacCallum was Hon. Secretary, later succeeded by Mrs. James Drummond. In addition to the voluntary running of the canteen W.V.S. dispatched parcels to the local boys serving in the war zones.

HMS Queen Emma and HMS Princess Beatrix were the first warships to remain anchored off the town. The transport ship "Ettrick," with troops for invasion training aboard, lay off shore, as did the hospital ships "St David" and "St Andrew." These "lend lease" ships were used until the Jubilee Hall at the Maitland was converted to a Military Hospital. It had 50 beds complete with a fully equipped operating theatre and X-ray room. The hospital was staffed by members of the Queen Alexander's Imperial Medical Nursing Staff and by V.A.D.s who were house in the Maitland buildings. The Medical Orderlies and ambulance drivers shared hut accommodation on the Greens. Some local people, as well as military personnel, owe their lives to the skill and dedication of hospital staff based there.

By 1941 two more ships at the pier were the "Quebec" and the "Beverly Brook." There were regular comings and goings of naval ships including units of the Allied Fleets. Dutch oil-driven lighters were, for a long time, on duty mostly around Kilbride. Two Canadian lake steamers, the "Eaglescliffe Hall" and the "A.A. Fields" were anchored off the pier - the latter was sunk during the D-Day landings on the Normandy coast.

In Dalchenna Bay two Mississippi river boats, the U.S. Northland and the U.S. Southland were stationed as a camp overflow. Several of their sister ships were sunk crossing the Atlantic to Britain.

In the latter part of 1943 and early 1944 a number of Docker Companies underwent invasion training at Kilbride Camp. This consisted of loading and unloading ships under war conditions including the use of live ammunition.

 ~ VIP Visits ~

On the 27th June 1941, the Right Honourable Winston Spencer Churchill , M.P., Prime Minister and War Leader, visited the Inveraray Training Area. The Premier, and those accompanying him, came ashore, below the Manse, from landing craft after witnessing operations at Ardno near St Catherine's. As he entered Admiralty House a number of householders from nearby Newtown greeted him. He replied "God bless you all." In the course of his visit he told the Provost how much he appreciated the wonderful setting of the Royal Burgh. He declared that he, and all his War Office, realised how much the people of Inveraray were doing under great difficulties. He wished his personal thanks to be conveyed to the Council. His closing words were "Carry on Provost. By our united efforts victory is sure." (Town Council Minutes). Later at Kilbride, from a sandbagged shelter, he watched demolition of barbed wire entanglements and a demonstration of beach assault and landing techniques. Prior to his departure from Loch Fyne, the Prime minister marched behind a Military Band to the pier. He responded to loud cheering by waving his cap on a walking stick above his head!

In the autumn of 1941 His Majesty King George VI visited the Inveraray Training Area. On arrival he was received at the pier head by His Grace the Duke of Argyll, Lord Lieutenant.

The Provost, Magistrates and members of the Town Council, were presented to His Majesty - Provost Alex. J. MacIntyre, Baillie Arch. H. MacDonald, Baillie Donald MacLaren, Dean of Guild Alexander Gillespie, Councillor James Devine, Councillor High B. Jenkins and Deputy Town Clerk George M. Sime. After lunch, at Admiralty House, the King proceeded by sea to Frenchfarland where he too observed demolition exercises. After visiting Kilbride Camp and "HMS Quebec" he returned to Inveraray and left by sea.

Norwegian troops undergoing training were visited for two days by H.M. King Haakon of Norway and H.H. the Crown Price Olaf. His Majesty held a review in the Stable Park and was the guest of his officers at the Petty Officer's Club (Coffee House). The royal visitors resided at Admiralty House which was placed at their disposal by the Lords of the Admiralty. During their stay the Norwegian National flag was flown on the flagstaff.

Lord Louis Mountbatten succeeded Lord Keyes as Head of Combined Operations and in that capacity visited Inveraray to boost the morale of the men at a time when things were looking grim.

A large contingent of W.R.N.S. billeted at Dalchenna, was stationed at H.M.S.Quebec. Princess Marina, Duchess of Kent and Chief Commander visited there to open a new sick bay.

American, Canadian, Free French, Poles and Russians were also trained at Inveraray. On one occasion several landing craft, one of which was flying the Stars and Stripes, were seen approaching the shore below the manse. The company, who walked up to Admiralty House, included General Eisenhower, Major General Thorne, G.O.C. Scottish Command and Mr Winant U.S. Ambassador to Britain.

 ~ Odds & Ends ~

In 1940 the B.E.F. retreated to Dunkirk amongst which was the 51st Highland Division. It included the 7th and 8th Battalions of the Argyll and Sutherland highlanders. The Division was cut off at St. Valery and the survivors were forced to surrender. Several local men were taken prisoner and spent the remainder of the war as P.O.W.s. Among these was Captain Ian Campbell who was heir to the Duke of Argyll. During captivity, his wife Louise (later Duchess Louise), was instrumental in forming a link with agencies whereby parcels and comforts were transported to the men in the P.O.W. camps. Many Argyll men had cause to remember her with heartfelt gratitude.

One local lady will be remembered, with affection, by the troops who passed through Inveraray. She was Miss Kirsty MacLachlan of the Temperance Hotel (corner of Main Street East and Front Street). Kirsty turned her hotel into a home from home for all who cared to call and was affectionately known as "The Mother of the Fleet."

A casualty of war was the church steeple which was regarded as being unsafe. It was removed in 1941. Each stone was carefully numbered and stored in the old quarry at Bealach an Fhuarain with the intention of rebuilding the spire at the end of hostilities. The fate of these stones has long remained a mystery, but, suffice to say that by the end of the war they had disappeared! Today the cost of a new steeple has proved prohibitive and the lovely old parish church of Inveraray stands denuded of what was the focal point of the town. Luckily the town clock and the church bell, which were removed during the demolition of the steeple and stored for safekeeping, have been returned to their rightful place.

Please contact us if you have a story or any information about wartime Inveraray.


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